By Rock + Run
The exercises provided below have been chosen from a vast array of numerous routines available as those most specific to rock climbing. They are designed to enhance and maintain the physical attributes and strength of both your hands and fingers as well as the general health and athleticism of your mitts.
Begin all exercises slowly and use low resistance and few repetitions. Hold each position 3-5 seconds and relax - repeat 5 to 10 times. Little by little increase to 3 sets of 10 (30 reps). When graduating to a higher resistance begin again with 5 to 10 reps and build slowly.
If you experience pain or fatigue – stop immediately. As with any exercise, excessive or incorrect use can lead to pain or injury. Therefore progress slowly and increase reps and resistance very cautious.
Hook GraspWhat it does: Strengthens the only muscles that bend the fingertips. Especially helpful when the hand is open and you need to hold an object or support your weight with a fingertip hold. Also strengthens longer muscles in the forearm and wrist while stretching smaller muscles in hand for greater motion and endurance. How to do it: Place fingertips on individual buttons and position ergonomic palm bar in the palm with the hook over the web space between the thumb and index finger. Keeping fingertips slightly bent, flex all fingers toward the centre of the unit.
Thumb PinchWhat it does: Provides isolated strength to the thumb and the side of the index finger for a strong lateral hold. Strengthens thumb and index finger for greater stability and coordination. How to do it: Place the hook of the ergonomic palm bar on the inside of the bent index finger. With the tip of the thumb slightly bent, flex the thumb on the first button. Note: for increased resistance, flex the thumb tip on the first two buttons at the same time.
Tripod PinchWhat it does: Assists in holding awkward small pinches. How to do it: Place the thumb tip in the centre of the ergonomic base with the index and long fingertips resting on the two centre buttons. Keeping the fingertips bent, flex the thumb and fingers toward the centre of the unit at the same time. Be sure to keep the ring and small fingers bent into the palm during this exercise.
Power PinchWhat it does: Provides extra power to the small muscles at the base of the thumb and pinky finger to enhance your grasping ability. How to execute: Place the hook of the ergonomic base between the ring & pinky fingers and across the base of the pinky finger. Reach across the palm with the thumb to press the button closest to the fingers.
Fingertip PinchWhat it does: Isolates finger tip motion for the finer movements involving coordination and dexterity of the hand. The quality of finger tip movement allows the climber reach a good level of general pinching strength and dexterity. How to do it: Place all finger tips on their own button with the tip of the thumb on the centre of the ergonomic base. Keeping all finger tips bent, flex the thumb and all the fingers toward the centre of the unit at the same time. If you experience pain or fatigue – stop immediately.
What it does: Allows the fingers to press individually or in various combinations to help improve finger coordination, dexterity and strength to aid in all sports play and object manipulation. How to do it: Position Gripmaster in the hand similarly to the hook grasp exercise. Place finger tips on individual buttons, and ergonomic bar in the palm with the hook over the web space between the index finger and thumb. Keeping fingers slightly bent, flex 1-4 digits in varying combinations toward the centre of the unit as if playing an instrument.