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I took a punt on the Tenaya Inti because Rock+Run had them going at c.£50. I sized down one whole size from my street size (10 -< 9), but could probably have gone down half a size further, as the fit is snug but with toes almost flat. The shoe is quite soft and sensitive, with a thin sole, but the design nonetheless manages to put a lot of power on your big toe for edging. Combined with a good fit and a very pointy toe, I found them great for Spanish limestone - on pockets and crozzles, sharp edges and smooth smears. I've also used them on grit and very polished UK limestone, and the sensitivity is great for getting a lot of feedback about smears or slippery holds. The only downside is that the rubber seems to wear fairly quickly - especially on the pronounced big toe. After a couple of indoor sessions to break them in, two full weeks in Spain, two or three rounds of a local grit boulder circuit and three or four days out on UK trad, they're still fine but with those wear points at the front, between the sole and the rand, that always break your heart when you think you've just broken your newish shoes in and are really starting to trust them. I wouldn't use them as an indoor shoe, as I think with several indoor sessions a week they'd be knackered in a few months.
I bought these for circuit bouldering and multi pitch when comfort is a requirement. Initially thought I should have gone a half size down from my shoe size but they perform well so far on quite technical problems. They are quite wide fitting on my narrow foot.
Good shoe, although not a great finish. For example the threading on a velcro strap has come off and I'm going to have to restitch it. Also the parts where the top rubber overlaps the outer rubber can dig into my feet - mainly on the outer big toe. Other than that, for actually climbing in it's nice and sticky and works well. Good for edges, smears and toe jams. Yet to find a flaw on this front.
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