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Edelrid Ohm Assisted-Braking Resistor

5 reviews   |  

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Edelrid Ohm Assisted-braking Resistor is an innovative friction solution for problems experienced by climbing partners with significant difference in weight.

A lead fall for a heavier climber can sometimes be risky if their partner has difficulty controlling their falls, and lighter belayers can be pulled off the ground and into the wall. The OHM can be installed at the first bolt in the safety chain and in the event of a fall, the rope friction is increased so that a lighter belayer can hold a heavier partner with more safety and less difficulty. The Ohm still enables smooth paying out and taking in of the rope when climbing and belaying and has no negative affect on handling. The Ohm was developed for use at both climbing walls and outdoor sport climbing venues.

With this device, it is now possible for climbers in the lower weight ranges to belay a lead climber, who is up to 100% heavier. The Edelrid Ohm is suitable for ropes with a diameter between 8.6 and 11 mm and is particularly beneficial for belayers with a body weighing upwards of 40 kg.

Features

  • Should a lead climber fall at the first bolt, the OHM significantly reduces the risk of a possible ground fall
  • Belayer requires significantly less hand braking force to arrest a fall
  • Lowering a heavier climber is much easier to control
  • Includes maillon, quickdraw and carabiner
  • Recommended weight difference (lead climber > belayer): 10 - 40 kg
  • ISPO Show Award Winner 2016/17
  • Unique product 

Specification

  • Guide Mode: No
  • Number of Ropes: One
  • Carabiner Included: Yes
  • Handles Ropes from 8.9 to 11mm
  • Minimum weight belayer: 40 kg
  • Weight: 470g
Customer Reviews
4.8 Based on 5 reviews
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CT
07/21/2019
Catrin T.
United Kingdom United Kingdom
Less strain on me

There is a 5 stone difference between me and my partner and it is far, far more comfortable for me now when my partner wants a take during indoor & sport climbing. He feels more confident too.

SC
07/26/2018
Simon C.
United Kingdom
Good product

This is a great idea, and having tested it with a couple of relatively high factor falls it works well. My lighter climbing partner would normally be whipped off his feet, but held the falls comfortably. Just needs a bit of care not to try to pull the rope through too quickly when clipping, as this can create quite a bit of drag. Not the cheapest or lightest bit of gear, but worth considering if you'll definitely make use of it.

DL
08/15/2017
DALE L.
United Kingdom
Just the job for light belayer

Climb a lot with my best mate and while she has never dropped me with 50kg weight difference physics does set time take over! Weighting her down works ok ish but causes a risk of her hand being pulled into device (happend a couple of times) so the ohm was tried and removing weight from her onto the wall is a big plus. Don't quite trust the QuickDraw due to the range of moment of the device during activation so have changed for a small lock gate.

NG
05/04/2017
Nicholas G.
United Kingdom
Excellent kit

This is fantastic, it adds zero friction to the lead climber taking up to clip but in the event of a fall adds loads of friction reducing the strain on the belayer enormously. I weigh 14.5 stone and I have many belayers who weigh 10 or 11 stone this either negates the need for a bag or stops them being lifted of the ground to the first clip. I have only ever used it for indoor sports climbing but I will use for outdoor sports and if the first runner is suitable for trad.

BB
02/11/2017
Big B.
Amazing piece of kit

Good service from RR, phoned Thurs to check availability (because everywhere else I tried was sold out) then placed the order. Paid a little extra for next day DPD delivery which arrived around lunchtime Friday. Used at Undercover Rock in Bristol on Friday evening. I am heavier than my climbing partners by approx 60% and they had previously had to modify their techniques massively. With this device there was no launching up the wall and lowering was considerably easier for them. It just works. I anticipated that loading the rope into the ohm would be a bit of hassle, but the spring loaded catch makes this dead easy too.