Edelrid Ohm Assisted-braking Resistor

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The Edelrid Ohm is an innovative, solution for the problems experienced by climbing partners with a significant difference in weight. That is to say the risk for a heavier lead climber if their partner has difficulty controlling their falls and the risk for a lighter belayer if their partner’s falls pull them off the ground, hurling them against the wall. The OHM is an assisted-braking resistor that you install at the first bolt in the safety chain. In the event of a fall, the OHM increases rope friction so that a lighter belayer can hold a heavier partner without being suddenly pulled off the ground and thrown against the wall. The Ohm still enables smooth paying out and taking in rope when climbing and belaying and has no negative affect on handling. The Ohm was developed for use at both climbing walls and outdoor sport climbing venues.

The development of the Ohm was supported by the Institute of Mechanical Handling and Logistics at the University of Stuttgart. It is an assisted-braking resistor that is attached at the first bolt with a quickdraw and the rope runs through it. In the event of a fall, the rope is pulled into the device’s braking mechanism. This then brakes the fall. The device does not stop the rope abruptly; instead it progressively brakes the speed it runs through, so that the belayer can still dynamically arrest the fall. The Ohm increases the amount of friction in the safety chain, independent of the belay device used. As a result, the belayer needs to apply significantly less hand braking force to the braking rope to arrest the fall and they wont be hurled against the wall in an uncontrolled manner.

The Ohm is designed not to affect rope handling when belaying a lead climber. It neither increases rope drag for the lead climber, nor has a negative affect when paying out rope. The device’s assisted braking mechanism is only activated in the event of a fall.

Including the Ohm into the safety chain increases this factor significantly. With this device, it is now possible for climbers in the lower weight ranges to belay a lead climber, who is up to 100% heavier than the belayer. The Ohm is suitable for ropes with a diameter between 8.6 and 11 mm and is particularly beneficial for belayers with a body weighing upwards of 40 kg.

  • Includes maillon, quickdraw and carabiner
  • ISPO Show Award Winner 2016/17
  • Unique product 

 

 

  • Guide Mode: No
  • Number of Ropes: One
  • Carabiner Included: Yes
  • Colour: Green
  • Manufacturer: Edelrid
  • Weight: 460g



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DL
08/15/2017
DALE L.
United Kingdom

Just the job for light belayer

Climb a lot with my best mate and while she has never dropped me with 50kg weight difference physics does set time take over! Weighting her down works ok ish but causes a risk of her hand being pulled into device (happend a couple of times) so the ohm was tried and removing weight from her onto the wall is a big plus. Don't quite trust the QuickDraw due to the range of moment of the device during activation so have changed for a small lock gate.

NG
05/04/2017
Nicholas G.
United Kingdom

Excellent kit

This is fantastic, it adds zero friction to the lead climber taking up to clip but in the event of a fall adds loads of friction reducing the strain on the belayer enormously. I weigh 14.5 stone and I have many belayers who weigh 10 or 11 stone this either negates the need for a bag or stops them being lifted of the ground to the first clip. I have only ever used it for indoor sports climbing but I will use for outdoor sports and if the first runner is suitable for trad.

BB
02/11/2017
Big B.

Amazing piece of kit

Good service from RR, phoned Thurs to check availability (because everywhere else I tried was sold out) then placed the order. Paid a little extra for next day DPD delivery which arrived around lunchtime Friday. Used at Undercover Rock in Bristol on Friday evening. I am heavier than my climbing partners by approx 60% and they had previously had to modify their techniques massively. With this device there was no launching up the wall and lowering was considerably easier for them. It just works. I anticipated that loading the rope into the ohm would be a bit of hassle, but the spring loaded catch makes this dead easy too.