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Edelrid Ohm Assisted-braking Resistor is an innovative friction solution for problems experienced by climbing partners with significant difference in weight.
A lead fall for a heavier climber can sometimes be risky if their partner has difficulty controlling their falls, and lighter belayers can be pulled off the ground and into the wall. The OHM can be installed at the first bolt in the safety chain and in the event of a fall, the rope friction is increased so that a lighter belayer can hold a heavier partner with more safety and less difficulty. The Ohm still enables smooth paying out and taking in of the rope when climbing and belaying and has no negative affect on handling. The Ohm was developed for use at both climbing walls and outdoor sport climbing venues.
With this device, it is now possible for climbers in the lower weight ranges to belay a lead climber, who is up to 100% heavier. The Edelrid Ohm is suitable for ropes with a diameter between 8.6 and 11 mm and is particularly beneficial for belayers with a body weighing upwards of 40 kg.
Would you like to try on some climbing shoes, running shoes or mountain boots for size before you make your purchase? If so, then why not book an appointment with us today! We can offer you a bespoke one-on-one shopping experience with one of our experienced staff members.
Would you like to try on some climbing shoes, running shoes or mountain boots for size before you make your purchase? If so, then why not book an appointment with us today! We can offer you a bespoke one-on-one shopping experience with one of our experienced staff members.
There is a 5 stone difference between me and my partner and it is far, far more comfortable for me now when my partner wants a take during indoor sport climbing. He feels more confident too.
This is a great idea, and having tested it with a couple of relatively high factor falls it works well. My lighter climbing partner would normally be whipped off his feet, but held the falls comfortably. Just needs a bit of care not to try to pull the rope through too quickly when clipping, as this can create quite a bit of drag. Not the cheapest or lightest bit of gear, but worth considering if you'll definitely make use of it.
Climb a lot with my best mate and while she has never dropped me with 50kg weight difference physics does set time take over! Weighting her down works ok ish but causes a risk of her hand being pulled into device (happend a couple of times) so the ohm was tried and removing weight from her onto the wall is a big plus. Don't quite trust the QuickDraw due to the range of moment of the device during activation so have changed for a small lock gate.
This is fantastic, it adds zero friction to the lead climber taking up to clip but in the event of a fall adds loads of friction reducing the strain on the belayer enormously. I weigh 14.5 stone and I have many belayers who weigh 10 or 11 stone this either negates the need for a bag or stops them being lifted of the ground to the first clip. I have only ever used it for indoor sports climbing but I will use for outdoor sports and if the first runner is suitable for trad.
This is fantastic, it adds zero friction to the lead climber taking up to clip but in the event of a fall adds loads of friction reducing the strain on the belayer enormously. I weigh 14.5 stone and I have many belayers who weigh 10 or 11 stone this either negates the need for a bag or stops them being lifted of the ground to the first clip. I have only ever used it for indoor sports climbing but I will use for outdoor sports and if the first runner is suitable for trad.