By Ned Feehally 

Introduction

This guide is designed for those of you who like the idea of structured fingerboard training but have no idea where to start. I aim to provide a basic plan which is easy to understand, follow and add to as you progress. Image right: Ned using some of his honed finger strength. Photo courtesy of Wild Country. Both the intermediate and beginners training plans have a detailed description of the exercises followed by a slimmed down “session sheet” which gives an outline of the plan without any extra information. The idea is that you read the detailed information, then print the “session sheet” and take it with you to the wall / garage / bedroom. This way you know exactly what you are doing for each session but you don’t have to cart around reams of paper.

Intermediate - Font 6c+/V5 (ish) to 7c/V9 (ish)

As with the beginners plan, the idea of this is to provide a basic training plan which you can easily follow and eventually add to or tweak to suit your needs. I recommend you use a Beastmaker 2000 for this training plan, although it can easily be done on a Beastmaker 1000 or many of the other resin fingerboards that are available. Each hold has a corresponding hold on the other side of the fingerboard. Each hang is done with left hand on the numbered hold and the right hand on the corresponding hold on the right of the fingerboard. Each set of hangs is done with the following format: Hang the hold for 7 seconds, followed by a 3 second rest. This is one rep. Repeat it 6 times.

The Holds

Hold 1 – 45 degree sloper, Hold 2 – Large edge, Hold 3 – Small edge, Hold 4 – 35degree sloper, Hold 5 – Deep “back 2” pocket, Hold 6 – Shallow 2 finger pocket, Hold 7 – Deep 2 finger pocket, Hold 8 – Sloping 2 finger pocket, Hold 9 – Incut edge. Each hold has a corresponding hold on the other side of the fingerboard. Each hang is done with left hand on the numbered hold and the right hand on the corresponding hold on the right of the fingerboard. Each set of hangs is done with the following format: Hang the hold for 7 seconds, followed by a 3 second rest. This is one rep. Repeat it 6 times.

Time ON/Off	Overall Time
7 seconds hang	0-7 seconds
3 seconds rest	7-10 seconds
7 seconds hang	10-17 seconds
3 seconds rest	17-20 seconds
7 seconds hang	20-27 seconds
3 seconds rest	27-30 seconds
7 seconds hang	30-37 seconds
3 seconds rest	37-40 seconds
7 seconds hang	40-47 seconds
3 seconds rest	47-50 seconds
7 seconds hang	50-57 seconds

During each 7 second hang lock the arms at 1 of 3 different angles. Each of the individual 7 second hangs in the set should be hung with your arms locked at different angles, as shown below…

• Hang 1 – arms at 140 degrees – just off being straight
• Hang 2 – arms at 90 degree lock
• Hang 3 – arms at full lock
• Hang 4 – arms at 140degrees
• Hang 5 - arms at 90 degrees
• Hang 6 – arms at full lock

After at least a 15 min warm up:

1. Front 2 (index and middle fingers) pocket hang on either hold 6, 7 or 8 (or play around with combinations of these holds). Remember to vary the angle of lock in your arms with each hang.
2. Now have 2 to 3 mins rest.
3. 4 finger open handed hang on hold 3. Complete the set as detailed above.
4. Now have 2 to 3 mins rest.
5. Middle 2 (middle and ring finger) pocket hang on either hold 6, 7 or 8 (or play around with combinations of these holds). Complete set as detailed above.
6. Now have 2 to 3 mins rest.
7. 4 finger sloper hang on hold 1 or 4 or a combination of both. Complete set as detailed above. No thumbs on the holds below!
8. Then have 2 to 3 mins rest.
9. 3 finger open handed hang on either hold 3 or hold 2. Complete set as detailed above.
10. After completing all these exercises take a 10 min rest and the whole lot again and depending on how you feel (still psyched? Still got energy?), repeat it a 3rd time.

Remember, this is meant to be hard! Make sure you really give it everything.

Intermediate Training Plan

Note down exactly what holds/hold combinations you are using for each exercise and the rest periods that you are taking, so that you can accurately measure progression over time.

• Warm up – very important to warm up properly.
• Front 2 finger hang on pockets.
• 2/3 mins rest
• 4 finger open handed hang on edges.
• 2/3 mins rest
• Middle 2 finger hand on pockets.
• 2/3 mins rest
• 4 finger sloper hang.
• 2/3 mins rest
• 3 finger open handed hang on small edge.

Each set = 7 second hang followed by 3 second rest, repeated 6 times in total. Remember to vary the angle of lock in the arms for maximum training benefit. Rest for ~10 mins and repeat up to 3 times.

Progression Techniques

You can use these in combination or on their own to vary the intensity of each exercise allowing a lot of adjustment to the difficulty. This helps you to avoid hitting plateaus in your progression. To make the exercises harder you can:

• Use a smaller hold
• Hold the hold further out, so your hanging onto less of it making a smaller hold.
• Reduce your rest times (i.e. from 3 down to 2 mins rest between sets).
• Add some weight – start with a couple of kgs (held between the feet or in a rucksack).
• Hang with one hand in a similar, but worse hold, and alternate hands between hangs so each hand has hung 3 times off a smaller hold and 3 times off a larger hold.
• To make exercises easier you can:
• Reduce hanging time and increase resting time for each hang. Instead of 7sec hang and 3sec rest, hang for 6 sec and rest for 4, or hang for 5 and rest for 5.
• Use a bigger hold.
• Put a foot on the wall in front of the fingerboard to take some weight off your hands.
• Hang with one hand in a larger hold, and alternate hands between hangs so each hand has hung 3 times off a smaller hold and 3 times off a larger hold.
• (Sloper specific) Hang slopers with the assistance of a thumb pinching underneath the hold.
• (Sloper specific) Nestle the index fingers into the grooves created between the slopers.

Advanced Training - 7c/V9 and above

When you are at this level you should experiment with your own training to find what works for you. Over time you will discover the most effective way for you to train. You should identify your strengths and weaknesses and use this information to devise your own personalise training plan which should target your weaknesses very specifically.

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