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The Scarpa Instinct S is a high-performance rock climbing shoe, designed with indoor climbing and steep athletic rock routes in mind.
The most flexible shoe in the Instinct collection, the Instinct S takes advantage of the new CTS technology. Their combined tension system is produced by pairing two different types of rubber across the sole. A combination of elastic tension rubber controls the length of the shoe, with a soft high friction rubber surrounding the forefoot area. Scarpa have even varied the tension of the rubber from inside to outside of the toe box - with harder tension rubber sitting beneath the big to improve inside edging, and softer more supple rubber to dissipate pressure on the outside of the foot.
The large rubber cover above the toe area enables powerful toe-hooking, there's an integral heel cup for sensitive heel-hooking, a slightly asymmetrical and downturned shape with a medium angled toe box for precision footwork. The innovative heel system also helps spread the force of the heel tension, which in turn decreases over-compression of the toe box. Pressure is released on the Achillies tendon by interrupting the heel tension hand, while the holes on the side of the heel indicate the tension applied across the area - 1 hole for light tension, 2 holes for medium, and 3 holes for strong tension.
A five panelled microfiber upper, REB reinforced elastic closure with seamless big toe panel and seamless four-toe panel offer the best custom moulding fit. Full Ultra-sticky M50 rubber on the top of the toes and heel cup massively improve hooking and camming, and this combines perfectly with the 3.5mm three quarter length XS Grip 2 sole to offer some of the highest levels of performance available on steep terrain.
Instinct Series
High performance and versatility are the universal characteristics of the Instinct line. Climbers that seek a versatile shoe that performs on all angles, as well as varied footholds, will appreciate these shoes with their balanced midsoles and active tension systems. Hooking with both the toes and especially the heels are strengths of the Instinct line.
If you require some assistance with sizing this climbing shoe to your particular needs click here: Rock Climbing Shoe Sizing Guide
The first video below goes into detail about the Instinct S' construction, whilst in the second, Scarpa Athlete Aidan Roberts talks you through the stand out features.
Would you like to try on some climbing shoes, running shoes or mountain boots for size before you make your purchase? If so, then why not book an appointment with us today! We can offer you a bespoke one-on-one shopping experience with one of our experienced staff members.
Would you like to try on some climbing shoes, running shoes or mountain boots for size before you make your purchase? If so, then why not book an appointment with us today! We can offer you a bespoke one-on-one shopping experience with one of our experienced staff members.
Front half of shoe is stiff - you can put lots of weight through the pointed toe - great for edging, pockets and woodies with bad feet. For refc, forefoot bends way less than the VSR, midsole flexes about the same. Heel is solid - had a few hard pulling heel hooks and no slipping yet. It’s not a natural smearing machine due to forefoot stiffness when new-ish ( I’m 76kg ) - drop your heel more on volumes and sticks like glue tho’ ( xs grip 2 ). Easy to pop off the heel between boulders. Beautifully made. Def a resoler. I’d recommend for everything bouldering unless you pad around on big comp style macros a lot when you’d probably want something with a more flexible forefoot.
On a whim decided to go same size S instead of my regular orange VS. Was concerned that the S would be to soft as I had previously come form a VSR. However, the fit is perfect and for me an improvement on the VS in every way.
On a whim decided to go same size S instead of my regular orange VS. Was concerned that the S would be to soft as I had previously come form a VSR. However, the fit is perfect and for me an improvement on the VS in every way.
One of my favourite climbing shoes for indoor bouldering so far! Look forward to getting outdoors to test them out.