Evolv Shaman 2S | First Impressions

Howdy folks, it’s my pleasure to pen a few words for Rock+Run about Evolv’s newest performance shoe, and a twist on a classic: the Shaman 2S.

So about its 1.6mm midsole? FLX Rubber Rear Rand? PSR 5? I’m afraid I haven’t the foggiest idea. What I can offer is my honest opinion as I test them out during an incredibly hot UK Summer..

50 Shades of White, Black and Grey

First impression: Monochrome. The white, grey and black scheme isn’t hugely eye catching off the bat compared to its iconic parent shoe or the competitors of Scarpa’s Instinct VSR or La Sportiva’s Skwama. However, the devil is in the details, and the slightly boho font choice plastered across the strap and sole, along with the elegant simplicity of the design means they look better the longer you stare.

If you want to strut your stuff at the bouldering gym in Gramicci trousers and a Patagonia tee, these will work with any outfit for the fashion-conscious climber. Oh and brownie points for keeping it vegan as usual, nice one Evolv.

Are you the Chosen One?

You might be reading this with one burning question in particular - how should we size them?

I’m a wide(ish) footed climber with a Roman foot shape (I had to google this too), so you won’t find me in La Sportiva’s Solutions anytime soon, in fact I generally don’t feel spoiled for choice with softer performance shoes.

After an extensive trying and testing appointment with the lovely folks at Rock+Run, I opted for a UK 9 - half a size down from my approach shoe size of 9.5. Evolv suggests the 2S is sized much the same as their performance range - street size for performance, 1 size up for comfort and 2 sizes up for beginners. I’d place these at a UK 9 as similar fit to my UK 8.5 Instincts, or UK 7.5 Otakis.

Joyfully I stepped onto the R+R shoe testing wall and put a toe onto the smallest edge. The 3.5mm EVO 74 sole rubber flexed and deformed, although it didn’t roll entirely I couldn’t confidently say I’d have trusted that foot on the last move of a highball boulder, or 10 feet above my last piece of protection. Well it’s not supposed to be an edging specialist - the standard Shaman has that base covered par excellence. A heavy smear on a sloper was much more promising, but fresh out of the box the new EVO 74 rubber didn’t glue me to the wall instantly. Once the rubber is worn and warmed I’d anticipate better performance on high-angle volumes, perhaps comparable to Vibram’s XS Grip 2.

A Game of Bridge

Leaving the Rock+Run showroom with the shoes on the passenger seat and an afternoon off work I pondered where to test them first - the Shelter Stone at Trowbarrow? Maybe Unit 34 at Kendal Wall? Instead I found myself at Cumbria’s premier wet weather training venue: Sedgewick Bridge. A mix of dust, slime and mirror-polished footholds should provide ample adversity.

After 10 minutes of traversing, listening to the traffic of the A591 pass overhead, I noticed what in my mind is the greatest quality of the Shaman 2S - I forgot I was wearing them. Not what you’d expect on the first use of a performance bouldering shoe. Evolv’s heels have sometimes left me cursing and limping, but the construction of the 2S feels like a gentle hug rather than a bear trap.

The “Evolab” heel feels slightly higher than the regular Shaman, yet more forgiving, and in my opinion a better fit for it, with good sensitivity and comfort on heel hooks. Even if it lacks some aggression, there was minimal slippage when pulling hard. You won’t find any dead space (I’m looking at you, Instinct range) here.

Summer Lovin'

As the sweltering summer rolled on, I found the energy to get to the wall and attempted to burn off the numerous ice creams. Indoor bouldering and training is where I expected the 2S to shine and I was very chuffed to be proved right.

Anything from delicate slabs, comp-style run and jumps, toe hooking a volume, or clawing in hard through an overhang, I could race around a 20 boulder circuit without stopping to take them off once. I grew increasingly confident in the EVO 74 rubber the more I used it, and revelled in being able to slap and stick a foot, even if my poor technique stopped me from nailing the foot placement.

A quick spin on the Tension Board sealed the deal - they’re my new favourite board shoe. The now bedded-in sticky rubber along with the powerful Shaman shape was the dream combo for those slippery little wooden footholds on the TB2. Fluff the second move and sit back down for a moody rest? The shoes stay on.

Are they the pinnacle of performance in any particular category? Maybe not, but on the other hand they are a very strong contender for a bouldering/training shoe quiver of one.

The generous hybrid sock opening is cavernous and allows even the sweatiest feet to get crammed back in for the next flailing attempt on your sloper project in the summer heat. Unlike many performance shoes, the 2S doesn’t have sock-like tightness, but feels structured, you won’t pop a pulley trying to get these on your feet - and if they fit your feet like they fit mine, you’ll know it in a heartbeat. AND they come in a low-volume version if you don’t happen to have hobbit feet too.

Conclusion

So who are they for? In a sense, everybody - sized correctly the Shaman 2S should be at home on the feet of a V2 climber as much as a V12 climber. If you want to get some quality training mileage in without your feet complaining and score a few hard boulders along the way I think the 2S is definitely worth your pennies.

But anyway, Noah Wheeler sent Burden of Dreams wearing a pair, which might be all the endorsement you need.