Precision and power in a refined Pro package, the new Flagship Pro might just be the crowning jewel in Unparallel’s latest lineup, taking American climbing shoe design to lofty new heights. Released alongside the all-new Qubit, these two models mark a new age for Unparallel, leaving us asking, “5.10 who?”. Designed in collaboration with Tomoa Narasaki, the Flagship Pro takes everything great from the original model and cranks it up to 11. So, it’s been built for the best competition boulderer of our age, but how will it fare on my fine feet? Let’s dive in and find out.
Pro or Con?
Right out of the box, the Flagship Pro is every bit the modern shoe, focussed around a versatile split-sole design that pumps tonnes of power to a stiffened front end whilst maintaining the flexibility to hook and smear with supreme ease. So, just like the original Flagship then? Well, yes, but that’s where the similarities end. The Pro is a pure homage to Narasaki, channelling his style into every detail. What’s new, you ask? Buckle up, there’s more than you might think.
First off, let’s talk about the shoe’s ‘last’ - the mold shape that the shoe is built around. Narasaki’s brief to the Unparallel team was a shoe that would feel ‘broken in’ right out of the box, so, naturally the Unparallel designers based the Pro’s entire shape around Tomoa’s own foot. The result is a narrower, more asymmetrical fit, boosting stability and natural front-end power (more on the fit of the Pro later). Next up is the midsole, present under the toes which has been stiffened for even more edging support - a real win in my book with the Pro being the most assured edging experience I’ve ever had out of a split-sole performance climbing shoe. Finally, it’s the tale of two rubbers. To improve responsiveness, the front portion of incredible, glue-like RS rubber has been slimmed from 3.5mm to 3mm, whilst the toe patch and randing rubbers have been switched to a stiffer compound to limit stretch, increase lateral rigidity and maintain Tomoa’s broken-in feel. Both rubber refinements are subtle yet crucial improvements that sure up the front end and further enhance the fantastic feel of the shoe.
Feeling Tweaky?
Like a rally modified version of your grandma’s daily driver, there’s always a worry that pro-level shoes designed with the world’s best can become an overly-specialised version of the thing you once loved. Thankfully, that isn’t the case here, quite the opposite in fact. Retaining wonderful sensitivity from the split sole platform, the Pro feels just as flexible and malleable as ever over tough volume smears making it the perfect shoe for training or competing in the gym. But, the real improvement has obviously come under the toes, and it’s this leap in performance that has taken the Flagship Pro well beyond the realms of my simple gym training buddy. Locked and loaded with additional firepower on small edges, the Pro has become my go-to for my projects outdoors (on pretty much every rock type!) as well as limit training sessions on a board. By reinforcing the toe box but reducing the thickness of its rubber, Unparallel has managed the seemingly impossible - boosting supportive edging power whilst making the experience altogether more sensual and intuitive. Sure, it’s not become an all-day trad climbing shoe overnight, but this round of Tomoa-inspired upgrades has thrust the Flagship to the pinnacle of the all-rounder, high-performance bouldering shoe category.
Fit & Feel
Want to compare your feet with one of the most iconic climbers in the world? Well, here’s your chance. Narrower and even more banana-like in its asymmetry, you might be forgiven for wincing at the thought of donning the Flagship Pro, but fear not. The very fact the Pro has been built around a real foot shape gives its fit a natural quality that I’ve seldom experienced in another Unparallel shoe. Narasaki’s push for a broken-in feel to the Pro has definitely paid off with the shoes feeling like an old friend straight from the box - first impressions matter!
Now the important bit, the sizing. As with all my previous Unparallel shoes, I went down one UK size from my street shoe, which is about as tight as I’d go for peak performance. Having slender feet, this downsize may well have been easier for me than most, but with a soft synthetic construction encased in soft, malleable rubber that will conform around any shape effortlessly, it’s easy for most foot types to find a home in the Flagship Pro.
In short, those with narrower feet might want to downsize to optimise performance, while those with wider feet may be better off sticking to their street shoe size or even going up. Bare in mind that the Flagship Pro is a peak performance shoe and it wants to be used this way, so make sure you size it appropriately to make the most effective use of its hold-destroying talents.
Round Up
The best in the game deserve the best kit to match and the Unparallel Flagship Pro is most definitely up to Tomoa’s task. This is more than an upgrade; it’s a reimagining of what an all-around performance climbing shoe can offer, taking Unparallel’s design to a new level that stands toe to toe with the leading bouldering shoes on the market. With precision, comfort, and power packed into every fibre, the Flagship Pro doesn’t just meet pro standards—it sets them.
Purchase the Unparallel Flagship Pro Here
Fancy trying them on before you take the leap? Book a one-to-one shoe fitting appointment at our brand new Showroom!
Photo Credit - Benjamin Cannon
