Scarpa Boostic (Size 37)

I bought these shoes without test fitting them, purely based on the toe profile that the highly asymmetric shape of the Boostic has. I used to wear Niad lace shoes and the symmetric toe profile was ruining my MTP joint on both feet, so I thought that going in the opposite direction might cure the pain, and boy it did. The first session in these shoes, despite my toes being knuckled up against the end of the shoe, was more comfortable than the last session in my Niads and they have only gotten better since. They break in really quickly compared to the Niads, and I could keep them on for extended periods after the first session without too much discomfort. After about 4 2+ hr sessions they had broken in completely.

I am a street shoe size 10 UK (11UK Niad), and the only size that was left in stock was 44.5 EU (10UK) and at first I though they were too tight, but now that they have stretched and bedded in, a 44 EU is probably a better fit for performance. Unfortunately, my heel is not a good fit at all in this shoe which makes it feel like I've got a flat tyre on both heels. My Achilles almost runs straight down to my heel and the shoe is very tight against it, so my heels cannot fill the rear of the shoe out at all. This is such a shame, as the rest of the shoe fits like a glove with no deadspace whatsoever.

In terms of stiffness, these are definitely the stiffest shoes that I have used so far, though I only have Niad lace and the Evolv Defy to compare it to. The confidence that these give you for standing on tiny holds in the gym is great and the support means that my toes aren't suffering anymore.

I think that I will definitely make use of the resoling service that Scarpa has available, but I don't think that I would buy these again, purely on the heel fit.

I would recommend these shoes for heavier climbers who like to climb slab and vertical routes who have experienced MTP pain in symmetrical shoes.

Good fit, no pinch points, great for edging perhaps less so for smearing

Good fit, no pinch points, great for edging perhaps less so for smearing