You've decided to treat yourself to a new pair of climbing shoes — maybe your very first pair, or maybe you've finally given your old ones a warrior's death, wearing them until your toes poked out the end. Either way, buying new rock shoes is an exciting moment, but with so many on the market it can also be a confusing one. Have no fear: this guide will help you find your perfect pair.
First things first — don't be afraid to try on a range of shoes, across different makes and models. Future-you will appreciate the effort. In my experience, the single biggest factor in hours of happy climbing is a close-fitting shoe that doesn't cause any unnecessary pain. If a shoe hurts the moment you step onto a hold, you'll be put off wearing it, and you'll likely regret the purchase. Remember, too, that sizing is inconsistent between brands: a size 41 Scarpa won't necessarily be the same actual size as a 41 from La Sportiva.
It's also worth trying shoes on later in the day — as your feet warm up they can swell by as much as a full size. To take the guesswork out of it, our Rock Shoe Sizing Guide helps you measure your feet and choose the right size for your brand, ability and climbing style. Climbing shoes come in a huge variety of designs, each suited to a particular style of climbing, but they broadly fall into three categories — Entry-Level, All-Round and Advanced:
Entry-Level
As the name suggests, Entry-Level shoes are aimed at climbers new to the sport, with comfort and durability the priorities. The sole is fairly flat, the toes aren't strongly curled, and the last is symmetrical or only slightly asymmetric. The heel is shallower, so it won't bite into your Achilles or ankle, keeping a shape closer to a plimsoll. These shoes don't have the technical refinement of pricier models, but at this stage the fastest way to improve is simply to climb more — and a comfortable, confidence-inspiring shoe lets you do exactly that, for longer, on less technical terrain.
Popular examples: La Sportiva Tarantula, Boreal Alpha, Scarpa Origin VS.
All-Round
All-Round shoes step up the technical design and precision of fit. They suit a climber who's starting to focus on a particular discipline and will benefit from extra support and edging, sensitivity, precision or toe power. If you mostly boulder, you might want a tighter fit, a Velcro closure, a deeper heel cup and a down-cambered sole for stronger heel hooks and more power through the toe box. If you're heading out on longer multi-pitch trad or sport routes, a stiffer, more supportive shoe strikes a better balance between comfort and performance.
Popular examples: Scarpa Vapour V, Tenaya Iati, La Sportiva Katana.
Advanced
Advanced shoes are built for the highest-performing climbers with very specific demands. Some are heavily downturned for maximum sensitivity and power on steep, overhanging terrain. Others use aggressively angled heels to lock your foot in place, driving your toes tightly into the toe box and curling them into a positive 'crimp'. Others again are much stiffer and arrow-like, able to edge on the smallest holds and pockets while staying rigid for minimal wasted energy.
Popular examples: La Sportiva Solution, Scarpa Instinct VS, Tenaya Oasi.
Beyond fit, there are three construction features worth weighing up when choosing your shoe: closure, rubber and upper material.
Closure
There are three closure systems: laces, hook-and-loop (Velcro) or slip-on. Laces give you the most control, so you can dial in a precise, comfortable fit and adjust for stretch over the shoe's life. Hook-and-loop is quick to open and close — perfect if you like to slip your shoes off to rest in comfort between routes. Slip-ons use elastic gussets and are the fastest of all to pull on and off; just note that the fit needs to be near perfect to perform, and the lack of a locked closure can limit them on hard heel hooks.
Rubber
Rubber choice comes down to a trade-off between friction, durability and sensitivity. Beginner shoes tend to use thicker, harder rubber that lasts longer and holds its shape under pressure for solid support. More technical shoes use thinner, stickier rubber to boost sensitivity on tiny edges and friction when smearing — at the cost of wearing through more quickly, particularly around the toes. That said, every shoe we sell uses rubber compounds that are far stickier than a standard shoe sole.
Upper Materials
The upper is the section of the shoe that runs along the top and sides of your foot, usually made from leather or synthetic materials. Unlined leather softens with use and, depending on the model, can stretch up to a full size over time — moulding to your foot for a bespoke fit, though beware of overstretching, as it can eventually feel overly loose. We take this into account in our Rock Shoe Sizing Guide. As a rule, the tighter you wear your shoes, the more they'll stretch. Some manufacturers line the leather with cotton or synthetic to curb this; it works well but makes the shoe a little less breathable. Synthetic uppers stretch the least — though still a touch over time — and many (not all) are vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. One small caveat: if you're prone to sweaty feet, synthetic shoes do tend to smell more, especially in warmer weather.
Finally
If you're still uncertain which type of climbing shoe is best for you, give us a call and ask us anything. Another good tactic is to order a few pairs (different sizes or models) and return the ones that don't suit for a refund — as long as they're unused and the packaging is as received, though you'll need to cover the return postage.
