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The Tenaya Oasi is a high end performance climbing shoe, developed for steep terrain but is also reasonably adept across the angles.
Two years of design development went into producing the Oasi, Tenaya's flagship model, and the result is a shoe used by Alex Megos (one of the world's leading climbers) to successfully execute the world's first 9a onsight.
The Oasi is most often compared to the La Sportiva Solution, however in truth it's quite a different animal. Narrower with a precision 'pointy' toe box, the Oasi provides a more traditional asymmetric curve, oppose to the Solution's very arrow-like, front-on toe box. The forefoot itself is also narrower than that of the Solution, however the more supple upper used on the Oasi is extremely forgiving and is remarkably adaptable to those with a wider forefoot (within reason). The fit of the Oasi's heel closer resembles that of a Five Ten Dragon. Finally, perhaps the most innovative feature is the closure/fastening mechanism. This utilises two multi directional straps which not only give an amazing level of fit and adjustment but, unlike most contemporary models, are also fully adjustable - allowing you to shorten or lengthen in the field, to cope with narrower feet, stretch or comfort requirements.
Product Review
Check out Rock + Run's detailed review of the Tenaya Oasi hereIf you require some assistance with sizing this shoe to your particular needs click here: Rock Shoe Sizing Guide
I,ve been a big fan of the Oasi ever since I treated myself to a pair about 6 years ago in El Chorro, Spain. I'd never heard of the brand but the guy in the shop said they were a new shoe and the moment I slipped them on I knew they were for me. Several pairs later and I still love them. Comfort out the box paired with a precision toe and brilliant feedback from the rock makes these my go to shoe. I have multple pairs of other brands but these are the ones I always come back to. Ive used them for everything from Trad climbing at Tremadog to smearing up Peak grit and edging on Peak lime. I've used them sport climbing on Austrian Granite and toe in polished pockets in the Frankenjura. All in all I can't fault them.....just need lock down to end so I can get out!
Well impressed with these. Sized down one size from my Sportiva katana laces. I'm 45 street shoe and 43.25 in the Tenayas. Very comfortable despite the tight fit. These perform brilliantly on slabs and vertical to slightly overhanging routes. Haven't had a chance to use them outdoors yet...service was great from Rock&Run, returns processed really quickly
The best shoe I have ever worn and I have been climbing for a a looooong time.
Tip, top - passt perfekt!!!!
i am able to wear this shoe for 3 hours without pain!!!!!
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