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This is my second pair of these shoes - they are now my go to shoes for most of my climbing. Once you get use to no edge you realise just how much of an advantage it is on most situations. It's a different kind of sensitivity and I can't think of any other shoes I've tried that come close. My only minor criticism is that the toe patch is a little small and could do with some texture, and the heel is not the best I've used (though it's not bad either!). I'd also prefer a velcro strap. Fortunately La Sportiva agree and are releasing the mandala next year which addresses all of these points, so perhaps I'll have a new go to shoe!
In terms of sizing, I'm a 45-46 street shoe and wear these in a 42 for a reasonably tight fit
These are the first pair of climbing shoes I've owned where I've felt like the heel truly fits my foot properly, right out of the box they felt like I'd been wearing them for years, despite having downsized a fair amount. As a consequence of having such a well fitting heel, I've actually been able to pull hard on heel hooks without fear of my heel popping, as has happened on occasion with other shoes. Outdoors, the 'No Edge' seems to have made a big difference as well, I have to admit that it genuinely appears to do what Sportiva claim it does; unfortunately this has facilitated my incredibly lazy footwork, so there's that. Will definitely be buying more pairs...
First use of ‘no edge’ surprised how good after a couple of uses very confident using them helping to improve my footwork (needs improving!!)
A good buy
This is about my 4th pair and I think I finally understand them. Gone half a size up this time, I take a street shoe 11 and now at 8 1/2s. They just work really well. Used them for bouldering, sports climbing and soloing E5 on the grit
Like the last reviewer I originally sized these down as this is what I normally do with testerossa.For my shape foot (Greek) I found it didn't work so I sized up from 36.5 to 37.5
Perfect fit.Great all round shoes for steep climbing indoors and out.On my feet the shape of the toe box (marginally less pointy than futura ) means slightly less feel on some pocket shapes but overall a great shoe and balances out with the la futura as it feels somewhat stiffer and has stayed this way after 3 months use (2-3 times a week)
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