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Tenaya Oasi

Size: UK 5

The Tenaya Oasi is a high end performance climbing shoe, developed for steep terrain but is also reasonably adept across the angles.

Two years of design development went into producing the Oasi, Tenaya's flagship model, and the result is a shoe used by Alex Megos (one of the world's leading climbers) to successfully execute the world's first 9a onsight.

The Oasi is most often compared to the La Sportiva Solution, however in truth it's quite a different animal. Narrower with a precision 'pointy' toe box, the Oasi provides a more traditional asymmetric curve, oppose to the Solution's very arrow-like, front-on toe box. The forefoot itself is also narrower than that of the Solution, however the more supple upper used on the Oasi is extremely forgiving and is remarkably adaptable to those with a wider forefoot (within reason). The fit of the Oasi's heel closer resembles that of a Five Ten Dragon. Finally, perhaps the most innovative feature is the closure/fastening mechanism. This utilises two multi directional straps which not only give an amazing level of fit and adjustment but, unlike most contemporary models, are also fully adjustable - allowing you to shorten or lengthen in the field, to cope with narrower feet, stretch or comfort requirements.

Sizing

If you require some assistance with sizing this climbing shoe to your particular needs click here: Rock Climbing Shoe Sizing Guide

Review

     Specification

    • Lining: Cotton with TXT treatment
    • Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 y TST 150
    • Outsole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5mm
    • Upper: Microfibre | Tounge Lycra perforated layers
    • Gender: Unisex
    • Closure: Strap
    • Weight: 640g (UK 8)

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    Customer Reviews

    Based on 14 reviews
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    T
    Thomas Worthington
    Comfortable, technical all rounder

    Bought this shoe for narrower feet. Fits great without any serious discomfort, and is great on edges, steep terrain and smears. I downsized 1.5 UK sizes but realistically could have downsized 2 UK sizes for a true performance fit.

    R
    Richard L.
    Versatile bouldering shoe

    When I first tried on the Oasi, I was pleasantly surprised by the comfort. The sizing is somewhat generous meaning I needed to drop two full sizes from my street shoe, but even when fitted tightly it felt comfortable from the box. For reference my foot is medium width at the toe, slightly wider at the instep, quite low volume, and medium to slim at the heel. The shoe fits my foot shape well.

    So far I've been using it for a mixture of indoor and outdoor bouldering, mainly on grit.

    The Oasi is quite soft, and the XS Grip rubber is sticky and confidence inspiring. It also seems to manage to work on small edges, although the shoes are still quite new so might soften up more in time. They aren't as aggressively downturned as some, but I think this makes them more versatile especially with how well they smear.

    The only negative I've come across is in toe hooks, the patch over the toe doesn't fully cover the front, so I have found it less effective compared to eg. Solutions.

    Overall I really like this shoe and would happily buy it again.

    R
    Richard Legge
    Versatile bouldering shoe

    When I first tried on the Oasi, I was pleasantly surprised by the comfort. The sizing is somewhat generous meaning I needed to drop two full sizes from my street shoe, but even when fitted tightly it felt comfortable from the box. For reference my foot is medium width at the toe, slightly wider at the instep, quite low volume, and medium to slim at the heel. The shoe fits my foot shape well.

    So far I've been using it for a mixture of indoor and outdoor bouldering, mainly on grit.

    The Oasi is quite soft, and the XS Grip rubber is sticky and confidence inspiring. It also seems to manage to work on small edges, although the shoes are still quite new so might soften up more in time. They aren't as aggressively downturned as some, but I think this makes them more versatile especially with how well they smear.

    The only negative I've come across is in toe hooks, the patch over the toe doesn't fully cover the front, so I have found it less effective compared to eg. Solutions.

    Overall I really like this shoe and would happily buy it again.

    J
    Judi R.
    Tenaya Oasi

    Bought for a Christmas present, recipient was very happy with them. Easy to order and delivered on time. Many thanks.

    J
    Judi Roberts
    Tenaya Oasi

    Bought for a Christmas present, recipient was very happy with them. Easy to order and delivered on time. Many thanks.