It’s here. The long awaited collaboration project between La Sportiva and Czech climbing demi-god Adam Ondra has descended from Mount Olympus in the form of the Ondra Comp. But what does that mean for the rest of us mere mortals of the climbing world?
The Elephant in the Room...
Putting the subjectivity of each individual’s definition of ‘expensive’ to one side, I can safely say I had high expectations for the most expensive bouldering shoe to date. Personally, I have mixed feelings. On one hand, I truly am surprised at how versatile this ‘comp’ shoe feels. The Ondra Comp offers the wearer a blend of sensitivity, comfort and edging performance – all from a highly malleable, soft compound shoe. It’s an impressive feat, fitting the competition brief and then some.
It’s an ideal companion on highly technical problems from Resin to Grit. Then there is the time, effort and skill put into the development and construction of this shoe to consider, which could justify its cost alone.
This is all very impressive and it translates to a thoroughly enjoyable climbing experience. However, the issue arises when – for at least £25 less – I could have just as nice a time in the still very recent Mandala, Scarpa Drago or Solution Comp.
I would’ve been far more impressed with the shoe if it weren’t plastered with Adam’s initials and the price point fell in line with the next highest on Sportiva’s list, the Solution Comp at £170. This isn’t to say the collaboration between athlete, brand and design team is to be shunned or a bad thing – quite the opposite. But where do we draw the line? Is the endorsement more important than the shoe itself? And is it worth £195?
Yes, but...
Get a SenseGripTM
For all the gear nerds out there, we have new technology – SenseGripTM. The technology allows the shoe to mould and ‘smedge’ around holds underfoot. This is achieved by using a combination of:
- a LaSpoFlex 1.1mm horseshoe midsole
- variable outsole rubber thickness (XS Grip 2 Rubber, 3.5mm at the edge to 1mm in the centre of the forefoot)
- a material padding which provides cushioning under the forefoot and over the toes to help with relentless coordination dyno attempts
So, how does this translate in the real world?
For me, as someone closer to 65KG, the front edge holds up very happily under concentrated force for such a malleable shoe. The midsole supports the very tips of your toes, giving you confidence to power down hard without fear of the shoe buckling or your feet screaming at you to “please stop.”
The shoe’s ‘smedging’ capabilities are revealed only when I move to a smaller, pebble-like smear. There is a combination of front edge stiffness with forefoot malleability, but this lies further back in the toe box rather than at the front edge. I’ve found the Ondra Comp’s USP more useful in my Digi-board training sessions than anywhere else – but that might just be the limits of my climbing ability shining through.
The Fit
It’s certainly more comfortable than you would expect a super soft, aggressively downturned, technical shoe to be!
The overall shape of the shoe is broad-ish at the forefoot, narrow at the heel and slightly asymmetric. This will suit those with a classic foot shape – where the big toe is typically the tallest of your toes.
I based my sizing off the Theory, the rumoured prototype for the Ondra, which put me at an EU 41.5, down from a street EU 44. After a few months of testing, I think I could’ve been a little braver, putting it closer to my other performance Sportivas at EU 41. I wouldn’t describe the Ondra Comps to be massively narrow or broad, so those on the edges of the spectrum might find them challenging to fit. I will note, if they fit you well then these are some of the comfiest performance shoes on the market.
Is It Better Than The Competition?
I feel that fit is king and should come before many other considerations of a climbing shoe, providing that it also fits your needs. In reality, there will never be the ‘best shoe’ – only the best shoe for you. So, if you are a lightweight Competition Boulder/Sport climber and it fits you well, then you’ll get a lot from the Ondra Comp. It does its niche – and more – very well. However, as soon as you stretch those parameters too far, there are other shoes that become more relevant to you.
In conclusion, I feel the Ondra Comp manages to stand out in an ever increasingly saturated market of high performance climbing shoes. If you can get past its price point, as your ‘last go best go’ ‘send the project’ weapon, I certainly think it’s worth a consideration. Is this the greatest bouldering shoe ever for everyone? No, but it will be for some. Do I think the Ondra Comp is a step forward in terms of climbing shoe design and innovation? Absolutely.
Check out the La Sportiva Ondra Comp
