By Tom Newberry
Edelrid’s Apus Pro Dry combines outstanding strength, safety and handling with a slim diameter. Sold as the go-to, dry-teated (to-the-core) rope for alpine adventures, but how do they fair on British trad? In a word “brilliantly”.
Dropping to the skinny 7.9mm cord felt unnerving at first, but after a couple of falls all irrational feelings faded. Instead I was thankful of the gramage [sic] saved both when on longer mountain walk-ins and also nearing to the end of long 45m pitches, such as those on Lundy. Handling wise they are brilliant. Supple through the belay plate yet still biting in guide mode with Petzl Reverso and DMM Pivot style devices. The two colours are clear, easily distinguishable against rock and distinct from one another, as are the middle markers - which I am a big fan of.
The Apus is designed to be a light and skinny rope, which often comes at the expense of durability. However, considering its slim diameter it has so far coped well with the abrasive granite routes and big sea cliff multi-pitching that the rope has thus far been tested on. Edelrid’s Pro Dry treatment provides a ‘near impregnable barrier’ to water and dirt, improving performance at the crag and increasing the life span of the rope. On top of this, the Thermoshield process - which all Edelrid ropes are subjected too - further improves the handling properties and cannot be washed out, ensuring the rope remains supple throughout its working life.
ValueIn the rope market you get what you pay for. That said, at £155 for 60m and £185 for the 70m [Rock+Run do improved prices on these RRPs see link below] these half ropes sit middle of the road price wise, yet have handled like the higher priced ropes on the market. Having only been tested for a few months, the Apus’ limitation could come in its longevity, a trade-off you must make with any sub 8mm rope.
All Edelrid ropes meet the Bluesign® criteria for sustainable textile production, setting a new benchmark for sustainable rope production. This means they have eliminated harmful substances from the manufacturing process and met the externally set standards for safe, environmentally friendly production. This is achieved by ensuring that all of the materials used employ as few pollutants as possible and that any harmful products bi-products are disposed of safely, all without compromising the quality of the finished rope. Through the changes Edelrid have made they’ve been able to make substantial environmental efficiencies, including: a 62% reduction in CO2 output, an 89% reduction in water usage, a 63% reduction in energy consumption and 63% fewer chemicals employed.