Edelrid Mega Jul

The Edelrid Mega Jul is heralded as a ‘new concept’ in belay devices. Whilst this may be stretching things slightly, the Mega Jul certainly does combine features from a number of other belay devices and rolls them up into one (currently) fairly unique package. 

Due to its 2-rope capacity and low weight the Mega Jul will be of most interest to trad climbers. Where it differs from most of its competitors is that it has an auto locking function which both reduces the chance of a belayer dropping a leader in the event of a fall, and also makes it easier to lock off a leader if they are working (or dogging!) a route. Once the device has locked the plastic coated thumb catch is used to unlock the rope and lower the lead climber if required. The thumb catch is also used to hold the device in the ‘open’ position meaning that rope can be rapidly paid out whilst belaying. As with other devices of this type this does take a bit of practice to master so that the leader does not lock the device by taking in rope to make a clip, which is never good.

As with the Petzl Reverso and BD ATC Guide the Mega Jul can also be used in guide plate mode, which is especially useful if bringing up 2 seconds. The small hole will also accept the nose of a carabiner so that the device can be unlocked in this mode to lower a second. It’s worth noting that the hole is too small to fully thread the majority of carabiners as shown in the video, but using just the nose should work fine.

Because of the number of different features of the Mega Jul it is well worth watching the product video which gives a pretty comprehensive run-down of the different operations.

Features

• For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling
• Very lightweight construction
• High braking performance assists the belayer with leader climbing falls
• Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner
• Rope can be paid out faster to a leader by holding device in the “open” position with the thumb
• Stainless Steel construction for durability

Suitable for 7.8 - 10.5 mm ropes

• Belaydevice guidemode: Yes
• Belaydevice lockmechanism: Autolocking
• Belaydevice numberropes: One or Two
• Carabinerincluded: No
• Manufacturer: Edelrid
• Mpn: 71784000663
• Weight: 88g