Guide BooksThe Rockfax Costa Blanca guide covers Leiva (or Leyva) and some of the crags nearer to the City of Murcia. There’s probably not enough to keep an average team going for a week and if you didn’t explore further you would be missing out on some excellent destinations. The Sierra Espuña guide covers more areas and is written in Spanish and English. The topos are pretty poor by modern standards and some of the crag approach descriptions are somewhat lacking. You need both guides for a hassle free trip. In addition there is information on murciaclimb.com. Topos are located in this section http://www.murciaclimb.com/croquis/
Where to StayCamping Sierra Espuña in El Berro is a good option. The wooden chalets are not cheap but you can also camp. Facilities are good. The village has three bars all of which offer good food at very reasonable prices; you can get a meal and a beer for around €10. El Berro has a small grocery shop and a bakery. The parking at Leiva is just 10 mins drive up the road while the crags in the Mula area are around 30-40mins drive depending on your destination. You could also access the lower altitude crags around Murcia in less than an hour; useful if the weather is bad further in land.
The principal crag of the area featuring numerous multi-pitch routes and some shorter single pitch sectors. The Rockfax guide has superior photos and topos of the main crag with the popular classics listed. The shorter crags at Levia are covered by Rockfax with the notable exception of Sector Alegría. The topo at Las Cuevas - Derecha appears to be incorrect which is a shame because there is some excellent technical face climbing here. The Spanish guide isn’t much use either but using both guides together it is possible to sort out routes and grades. The popular Sector of La Pecera and the Cuevas sectors 1 and 2 are accurately covered by both guides with some slight variation on grades.
Approach Notes: The map on page 44 of Rockfax Costa Blanca is missing a right turn on the road so better use these notes: Sierra Espuña 0.0KM Junction, turn sharp right 2.1KM Junction, turn right 5.2KM Turn right on dirt road 5.5KM Parking 6.4KM