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The Science Of Climbing Training

An evidence-based guide to improving your climbing.

There is an abundance of information available regarding climbing preparation. The Science of Climbing Training, written by renowned Spanish climbing coach Sergio Consuegra, offers an evidence-based approach to training for climbing by analyzing our sporting needs from the perspectives of exercise and sports science. It is intended to assist us in enhancing our climbing performance, whether we are advancing in our preparation for a project or a coach looking to maximize the preparation of our athletes. There are no "magic" training techniques in it because there aren't any, but you might be surprised by the science behind some common techniques.

The first section defines training and explains how various training techniques are controlled by physiological and biomechanical processes that take place within the body. The second part looks at how to improve specific needs (such as finger strength and forearm muscle endurance) and general needs (such as basic physical conditioning, pulling strength, pushing strength, and strength training for injury prevention) for the different demands and types of climbing and
bouldering. The third and final section makes recommendations for how to put it all together. It examines modifying training volume and intensity as well as tapering to promote super-compensation in order to help us improve our performance, whether it be for climbing a dream route, moving up a grade, or completing a long-standing project.


  • Author: Sergio Consuegra
  • No of Pages: 216
  • Page Size: 148 x 210 mm
  • ISBN 10: 183981182X
  • ISBN 13: 9781839811821
  • Publisher: Vertebrate Publishing
  • Published Date: February 2023
  • Edition: 1st, March 2023
  • Binding: Paperback (flapped)
  • Illustrations: Full colour throughout
  • Weight: 435g

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